At Bullion in Dallas, chef Bruno Davaillon returns to the French classics. And transforms them

November 1, 2018

“What does it look like to you?” my dining companion asked. “A lozenge? A spaceship? An Eberhard eraser?” In the year since Bullion opened downtown, the restaurant has become a defining feature of the Dallas dining scene, if not the city, and maybe a Rorschach test, too. Every Dallasite seems to see something different. I considered the gold-and-glass trapezoid clinging to the belly of the former Belo building, the restaurant’s serenely cosseted patrons glimpsed through the windows, and thought: zeppelin passenger deck.