Come December, my thoughts tend inexorably toward home, and so they turn just as predictably toward France, where I was born, and where the winter season brings memories of firesides and fattened geese. So it felt like an answer to unspoken prayers when chef Bruno Davaillon’s Bullion finally opened at the end of 2017, a restaurant to fill the void where chestnut-stuffed roast game and profite-roles should be.